Establishing a proper skincare routine can be daunting at any age, but once you reach 40, the pressure to use the right products can feel all the more intense. On top of taking care of your skin's overall health, specific concerns like increasing pigmentation and burgeoning wrinkles are suddenly on your radar.
To learn more about best skincare practices post-40, we tapped one of our go-to dermatologists, Jennifer Herrmann, MD, FAA, of MFC Dermatology in Beverly Hills for advice. From what products to use to which active ingredients to look for, we asked her all of our most pressing skincare questions. The most important one: Is it too late to start using anti-aging skincare products if you're already in your 40s?
Meet the Expert
Jennifer Hermann is a board-certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon located in southern California. She earned her medical degree from Harvard University and has a particular interest in skin cancer prevention and early detection.
"If you haven't been consistent with anti-aging products in your 30s, it's time to embrace a routine in your 40s," advises Herrmann. Don't panic if you're well into your 40s and haven't purchased a single anti-aging product—we've got you covered. Check out our dermatologist-approved skincare routine, complete with top shelf-worthy product picks, like an $80 "cream-meets-serum" miracle product for remarkably younger-looking skin.
The Best Active Ingredients
Herrmann recommends adding growth factors to your skincare regimen "because they help stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis leading to tighter, healthier skin."
DNA Repair Enzymes
These active ingredients "address damage at the molecular level and help reverse the aging process by fixing DNA damage directly," says Herrmann. "As we age, DNA damage accumulates, and our skin's natural DNA-repair enzymes begin to decline in our 30s—not a good combination!" she explains. "As DNA damage accumulates, cells begin to work less well and can even 'go bad,' resulting in pre-skin cancers and skin cancers."
These potent chemicals "help encourage healthy skin turnover and increased collagen production—think fewer fine lines and firmer skin."
Hyaluronic acid binds water and keeps the skin well hydrated but not greasy or overly oily, says Herrmann. "As we hit our 40s, our skin thins, and hydration decreases. Repeat applications of hyaluronic acid can help combat these changes."
Vitamin C/Kojic Acid/Soy/Azelaic Acid/Licorice
"These ingredients can help brighten unwanted brown spots," explains Herrmann. "Given the degree of your pigmentation and your skin type, it's best to have a board-certified dermatologist help determine the best combination for you."
The Holy-Grail Product for Younger-Looking Skin
Of all the products currently on the market containing the active ingredients listed above, Herrmann recommends one above all others. "DNA Eye Balm is Dr. Moy's newest product, which combats aging of the under-eye, which is where we tend to see the first signs of aging.
"It's unique in that it combines two breakthrough ingredients for the very first time: DNA repair enzymes and plant-based growth factor—along with peptides, hyaluronic acid, chamomile, and cucumber extract," explains Herrmann, who works with Dr. Ronald Moy. "It's the perfect combination of cream-meets-serum and improves texture and appearance dramatically."
The #1 Mistake to Avoid
Consistency is important because it takes time for products to work and benefits build.
According to Herrmann not following your skincare routine regularly is the biggest mistake you can make. "Consistency is important because it takes time for products to work and benefits build," she explains. "But keep it simple! If you choose too many products, it's easy to lose interest and fall back to old habits."
Here, she walks us through a basic skincare routine, complete with product recommendations for each step.
Step 1: Cleanse
Kick-start your skincare routine with a cleanser specifically designed for your skin type. Herrmann shares are a few dermatologist-approved products for every skin type:
Acne-prone skin: Try a cleanser like DNA Renewal Foaming Gel Cleanser. It has a combination of glycolic, alpha-hydroxy, and lactic acids, which can help gently exfoliate and unplug pores.
Irritated and sensitive skin: EltaMD Foaming Facial Cleanser is my go-to. A combination of anti-inflammatory enzymes and amino acids work together to gently cleanse and reduce redness.
Dry skin: A cleanser containing glycerin like La Roche-Posay Hydrating Gentle Soap-Free Cleanser is a good choice. Glycerin is a humectant that holds water, leaving the skin feeling smooth and hydrated.
Drier skin: Washing off makeup and pollution at night is adequate; a gentle splash of water in the morning is fine. Too much cleansing can strip the skin of natural oils and create irritation or paradoxical over-oil production.
Step 2: Moisturize
"After cleansing, I typically don't recommend toners," she says. "Many contain alcohol or other astringents that are too harsh for the skin and disrupt pH balance.
Instead, reach for a hydrating treatment. "In the morning, I usually recommend a moisturizer (again based on your skin type)," says Herrmann. "My favorite is DNA Intensive Renewal, which is more than a moisturizer because it contains marine botanical DNA-repairing enzymes."
"Science has taught us that damage to the skin's DNA from UV, pollution, and other oxidative processes leads to premature aging and eventually pre-skin cancers and skin cancers," explains Herrmann. "When applied to the skin, DNA repair enzymes go in and actually fix the damaged DNA, reversing the aging process."
Step 3: Sun Protection
After a moisturizer, always apply sunscreen. The best ones have an SPF of at least 30 and are broad spectrum, according to Herrmann. "It's important to remember that if you're using a moisturizer with an SPF of 15 and a makeup with an SPF of 15, your effective SPF is 15, not 30. No cumulative benefits here!" she explains. "DNA Sheer Defense SPF 50+ is made with DNA-repairing enzymes, so it's actually repairing the past and protecting the future of your skin—a two-in-one."
Step 4: Nightly Treatments
"At night, I typically recommend reparative or corrective serums and sometimes a retinoid," says Herrmann. "For overall improved collagen synthesis and increased skin health, I like DNA Regeneration Serum containing plant-based growth factors."
Pay extra-close attention to areas that show signs of aging more quickly. "It's important to use serums on your lower eyelids and neck because these are your most delicate areas and tend to show aging first," says Herrmann. "For pigment problems, I recommend SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic. The antioxidants in this serum help brighten the complexion without being overly irritating."
If you have acne-prone skin, Herrmann typically recommends a retinol or prescription-strength retinoid. "These products increase skin cell turnover and help unplug pores while encouraging the production of newer, healthy skin below."