Acceptable wine pairings have come a long way since James Bond could (almost) spot a traitor by his ineptitude at the table. ("Red wine with fish. Well, that should have told me something.")
It seems that these days, anything and everything goes—white wine with a juicy steak, Burgundy with dumplings. The explosion of tasting menus has thoroughly opened the doors of wine experimentation. I must confess, however, that I am something of a classicist. It's good to have some guidelines—you have to know the rules to break them. And as for having red wine with fish, I actually had some this week at a bistrot in Paris. It was turbot with a nice Gevrey-Chambertin. While the wine was perfectly lovely, I would have preferred a white Chassagne Montrachet any day, but sometimes you just have to go with the flow of the table. Let's just say that I am glad Mr. Bond wasn't there to judge me.
It's all about personal preferences and palate—here are my favorite ways to pair wine with (and without) food.
Clarkson Potter A Kitchen in France by Mimi Thorisson ($23)